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Ayers rock and the olgas

Unsettled at Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park

The Ayers Rock Resort has the monopoly on accommodation at Uluru, whether you’re looking for a luxury cabin or a campsite. Unless you’re into bush camping (I am not), you’ll be staying at the resort, which is in a town called Yulara. The nearest alternative is at Curtin Springs, 80km down the road. High season […]

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Sunset at Uluru

Sunset at Uluru

Sunset is my favorite time of day, when the light goes soft and the world glows just before going to sleep. I desperately wanted to see an Uluru sunset, but grappled with the idea of fighting crowds to do it. For a while I was ready to drop $200 (each!) on the Sounds of Silence, […]

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Flinders Ranges

You have to go to the Flinders

During six months of living in South Australia, there was one destination we were repeatedly encouraged to visit. Not the Barossa Valley or Kangaroo Island, but the Flinders Ranges. The Flinders are the largest mountain range in South Australia, and by all accounts something we needed to see with our own eyes. There was only […]

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Orange wall gorge

Back on the Road: Adelaide to Melrose

We left our housesit and Adelaide on a Thursday morning; after making sure everything was clean and in its proper place, I reluctantly went to say goodbye to the cats. The little orange cat, usually loud and demanding attention, curled up in her sock and glared at me through one eye. The white cat sat […]

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Portsea Mornington

Camping on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula

The existence of the Mornington Peninsula was brand new information to me, which is baffling considering how close it is to Melbourne. There it was hiding under Melbourne’s cloak, just far enough away to hover under the foreign tourist radar. Melburnians are well aware of Mornington and regularly make the 90-minute drive to this beachy […]

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Autumn leaves

Adventures in Adelaide Supermarkets

The world’s best supermarket is one kilometer from my work. This isn’t hyperbole; the Frewville Foodland has received the International Retailer of the Year Excellence Award at the IGA Conference for two years running, and the local media has interpreted that as ‘world’s best.’ I finally visited last week, and was predictably overwhelmed. It is […]

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