beautiful palm tree

Crocodile Warnings in the Daintree Rainforest

“So has anyone actually been taken by a croc around here?” In retrospect it was a fairly inappropriate question, but I couldn’t help myself. This was Wonga Beach in Far North Queensland, and we were allegedly in croc territory. “Yep,” the owner of the caravan park said. “Woman was taken just up the road not […]

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Silver fish sculptures

Catsitting in Cairns

Squeak sat on the couch, curled into a ball. When we entered the house she barely lifted her head; I wasn’t sure if it was disinterest or if the physical movement was simply too much for her tiny muscles. Gellar gave off the illusion of being robust, but it was mainly an excess of white […]

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The Wild Cassowaries of Mission Beach

Cassowary Encounters at Mission Beach

Let’s talk about cassowaries for a minute. The endangered southern cassowary lives in Mission Beach, Queensland, about halfway between Townsville and Cairns. And if you’re not careful, they will mess you up. Well, according to the signs they will, and those signs are very convincing. There are no shortage of warnings that tourists should be […]

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palm tree and boat

Zipping Around Magnetic Island, Queensland

The little red hire car was low to the ground and topless, with tires that wouldn’t have looked out of place on a bicycle. There were no doors, and when I swung into the passenger seat the whole car groaned as if I were an elephant. It was everything I’d hoped it would be. To […]

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Whitsunday black island

The Youthfulness of Airlie Beach

It was the last bar on the strip that made me realize I’d changed since my visit to Airlie Beach 11 years ago. Most of the men (boys?) inside were topless, shirts slung around their necks or missing altogether. The women nearly all wore sleeveless playsuits, but the super-skimpy versions that fluttered just below butt […]

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Deserted beach

Return to Great Keppel Island

Great Keppel Island is part of the Southern Great Barrier Reef, accessible by ferry from Yeppoon. It only takes 30 minutes and passengers disembark directly onto the beach, the closest I’ll ever get to exiting a yacht on a private island. Great Keppel was once known as a party island—its slogan was ‘get wrecked’—but island […]

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